“Milan is a true metropolis: strong and fearless but welcoming, too. Little by little, I came to realize that I could become someone here. “
– Giorgio Armani
Yankee Stadium is the towering cathedral of Baseball’s world. (I mention this to build a little perspective.)
More specifically, last night in Milan, we saw a production of Adriana Lecouveur at Teatro alla Scala. It is, well… the Yankee Stadium of Opera’s “world. (The performance was a “home run”, but I’ll cover that in a bit.)
Our attendance represents a thwarted journey that reaches back about three years, just before the advent of global Covid.
When the “plague” descended globally, no businesses (lodging, travel, entertainment) were prepared to deal with the avalanche of rescheduling, cancelations, or refunds.
As chaos spread, we employed charm, then diplomacy, or muscle to reclaim our expenditures from confused, or reluctant vendors.
One venue proved to be troublesome. After repeated reversals, Teatro alla Scala (“yes, no, yes, maybe, we’ll see”), held firm to their “no exceptions” rule.
Finally, I called the opera house ticket office and, after prolonged on-holds and disconnects, I reach a Box Office Agent.
I explained that we were barred from international travel by government mandates, and yes – we understood that the tickets were non-refundable under normal circumstances.
I’ll call this Agent “Renato”, because to deny him individual identity would be a disservice to this narrative. In exasperation, I describe our entire thread of misfortune. “Renato” melodiously (fill in Italian accent) proclaims to me (and all my descendants): “I am looking out of my window, and the sun is shining! People are walking everywhere, and everything is Ok! So…no refund!!!”
It might be constructive to add that at this historical moment, the epicenter of Covid was …Northern Italy. For the complete record, Capital One eventually intervened on our behalf.
Fast forward,…to this year’s journey, we once again attempt to purchase online tickets to La Scala. We delight that opera’s reigning Diva, Anna Netrebko, will be in the title role of Adriana Lecouveur!
I won’t bore you further with 3 days spent on 2 separate websites, attempting online access to this dream attraction. We, crushed by maddening Milanese internet circularity, resolve that our only hope to attend will be a last minute purchase at the Opera House on game day!
Just before our arrival, we learn that the Mayor of Milan has banned the Russian Netrebko from performing at La Scala because she didn’t condemn Putin’s Ukrainian gambit with sufficient vigor. (She actually lives in Vienna and NYC.)
Additionally, the Italian lead tenor for the production contracted Covid during opening night a few weeks before our scheduled date. Heroically, he finished his performance, albeit, hoarsely.
The probability of landing a coveted ticket is now gaining in our favor – the company is down two Stars, and war is exploding in the East.
Ok! We are now in Milan. Our modern “garret” apartment is just down a quiet backstreet from Teatro alla Scala. It is an hour before showtime and we have no excuse not to go over and finally make something happen!
After waiting in a short Box Office queue, we inquire if there are available tickets for tonight. The agent starts speaking in very distinct, accented English. We look at each other and laugh. It is unmistakably Renato behind the window! And, he has great tickets for us at a big discount!
We excitedly enter the grand mirrored lobby hung with crystal chandeliers. A subdued crowd in tuxedos, heirloom jewelry,(some sporting opulent lip enhancements), raise champagne flutes. These are our companions Saturday evening at La Scala.
Our seats are terrific. We are surrounded by local gentry, Germans, French, Spanish, and a few ‘mericans. Rapt attention throughout. Even during the second act, no one dares to be dozing.
The production is, after all travails, quite spectacular. Soaring arias and energized musicians animate a vast architectural set. Replacement voices rise to the challenge. The conductor beams triumphant in his debut here at La Scala!
Yes, somehow, …it all worked out.
As they say in Baseball – we made it to the BIGS!
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All photos taken and edited on iPhone 13 Pro Max.
Click on any pic to ride the image carousel:
I can just hear Renato, so No Refund! So glad you two were able to slip in for a fabulous performance. I would love to go to la Scala someday. Milan is such a beautiful city, great fashion, and the Duomo, gorgeous.