“Art is the elimination of the unnecessary.” – Pablo Picasso
We were enjoying Frühstück (breakfast) at Pension Suzanne (http://www.pension-suzanne.at/index.html), our traditionally appointed (some say fussy) accommodation steps from the StaatsOper in the heart of Vienna. Oskar, a German scientist, sharing our table set with elegant pink linen and attending a global conference, remarked that when he comes to this city, he feels like he is in “Italy.”
Thus demarks the relaxed, highly civilized, mood of this city, set to the music of Mozart, Strauss (and apparently Guns N’ Roses – from their concert posters), and countless musicians who port their instruments of various sizes on bicycles and trams.
Tourists in Vienna are attracted to abundant attractions in the Austrian Capital: Imperial palaces with luxurious grounds; museums and wonderful displays of statues and public art; flowered parks that seed the relaxed tone; magnificent buildings that define a host of international styles; civic promenades gracefully connecting outdoor cafes, conservative shops, bakeries, bookstores, restaurants, and churches,
On this visit, we were drawn to some everyday attractions that substantiate the charm and livability that residents enjoy. At the center of our daily routine are relaxed excursions to the fabled Naschmarkt. We wandered through the extensive outdoor “Kasbah” of tented stalls purveying meats, farm vegetables, fish, spices, pickles, olives, cheeses, pastries, nuts, and “hand food” from polyglot, exotic “Eastern” cultures.
Each ethnic vendor had a unique strategy to catch our eye, offer up a sample, or invite a chat. My new translucent sunglasses, expertly sourced by Lisa’s localization skills, ensured these commercial interactions always started in German.
Another aisle of this bazaar, features countless outdoor cafes that serve unperturbed locals tasty breakfasts, coffee, lunch, and drinks drawn from the neighboring supply of delights. People, and often their dogs, will sit for hours, nursing a huge cup of Latte, or a Beer with lemonade, talking, smoking, or just reading a book.
We were in no hurry as we lingered in the sun and watched the parade of residents and visitors stroll by. We also spent hours of energetic walking as we discovered hidden neighborhoods and coffee houses.
We made a point of celebrating “happy hour” at Café Schwartzenberg, the defining example of Viennese turn-of the- century (19th) establishments. “I am having my coffee, reading the paper, and setting my world right – and I will set here until the next Republic is announced!” The wizened waiters respected our rights to a slice of the Grand Café, and reminded us in less than subtle ways that renting grand illusions carries a tariff.
Music was also on our schedule. We elected to watch parts of Don Carlos – a 5-hour epic at the StaatsOper, live on the huge sidewalk TV, where seats are provided. We could take in our fill of music, go out to dinner at Huth, our favorite Beizl (pub food), and then return for Act 3, after dessert!
Our last night was spent at the VolksOper, a ride on the #42 tram, outside the Ringstasse that circles the town Centre. Here we enjoyed La Traviata, in the small and informal theatre, where Mozart delighted the regular folks.
An hour meander back to our room was rewarded at an outdoor restaurant across the street: pancakes with apricot jam and tea,
Very civilized, indeed.
Click on Pix – 2x for LARGE
You neglected to mention (but I see by the photos) that BOTH you and Lisa have translucent shades! Ja, meine damen and herren!
You both look like movie stars – with or without the shades. So fun to remember beer and lemondae…I’m off to mix one up.