In The Emperor’s ‘hood

“It is impossible to remain indifferent to Japanese culture. It is a different civilisation where all you have learnt must be forgotten. It is a great intellectual challenge and a gorgeous sensual experience.”                         – Alain Ducasse, Chef

Tokyo provides a mild, dry reception for our annual New Year’s visit: Work with Japanese partners and clients layered with relaxing days exploring the delights of “ancient Edo”- a 2-week enchantment within a dream.

Up before dawn each day for a bracing “old-folks jog” around the Imperial Palace grounds, we emerge from the remarkable Palace Hotel to inhale exquisite beauty, history, and civility. I can’t imagine a finer hospitality experience in the world. Luxury here is not squandered on ostentatious opulence, or gratuitous service. Rather, The Palace Hotel is a study in tasteful detail everywhere, unpretentious attention, and delicate comforts.

There is an unspoken distinction for the experience: Omotenashi – anticipating what’s required, and providing it, without expectation of reward. It is considered a privilege for the host.

From our Imperial base we tread districts proven to deliver – glass and chrome towers of Marunouchi, the financial district trimmed with restaurant arcades and toney shops offset with modern art and electric dew on trees; Omotesando, eye-candy of fashionistas watering at designer boutiques and chic cafes; Ginza, old-school department stores layered with big brands, food courts, vegtable and fish stalls, and serious shoppers.

Work is early morning taxis to charming back streets of Shibuya, where small shops and specialty stores blend among miniature homes and apartments.

Each assignment is a new, exciting challenge yielding grateful clients. Each evening we celebrate with our Japanese hosts in restaurants often hidden to the casual visitor: Mediterranean Cicada in Minato-ku, tempura at minimal Hakata Takao in Omotesando, Michelin-starred Chinese at Amber Palace, and fish-stews, onion soup, and salads at Grand Kitchen in our hotel. A steamy bowl of ramen, in the catacombs of nearby Tokyo Station, is always a secret option when we are weary.

We are invited by our wonderful translator, Maiko-san, to visit her at Minimal, a Bean-to-Bar chocolate business where she serves us heavenly hot chocolate made almost entirely with pure beans, curated from around the world. Someone will surely take notice of this emerging delight!

Another destination for us is both traditional Thai (in Akasaka) and Sports massage (in the sporting goods district!). An hour later, we are transported beyond jet-lag to other-worldly serenity.

Maybe our ‘hood is a dream, yet we find ourselves returning each year to the colors, the dignified simplicity, the peace amidst activity, the opportunity to contribute as honored guests.

We love our work. We love Tokyo. We are so fortunate to engage with earnest and appreciative people, at work, at repose, in this beautiful, respectful setting.

All images captured on iPhone 7+

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